Grandfather Clock Tilted Movement -- how to straighten?

Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 1:48 pm     Post subject: Grandfather Clock Tilted Movement -- how to straighten?

Hello fellow clock folks! This is my first post here. I searched for a while in the forums but couldn't find anyone with this same issue, so here goes:

I have a Howard Miller 67th Anniversary Grandfather Clock with the triple chime / strike, cabled, weight-driven movement. It has been running well, but I believe that it may not have been level at the previous owner's home as I noticed that the face (and entire movement) tilts slightly toward the rear of the clock, causing the dial to be flush with the case only at the bottom, and having a space growing to ~3/8" near the top of the face above the moon dial.

Looking in from the side widow, I can tell that the entire movement (along with the attached face) has a slight tilt toward the rear of several degrees. I am assuming that being on a non-front-to-rear level surface has over time allowed the weights to slowly cause this tilt, but it could be something else I suppose.

I was a bit surprised to find that such a heavily weighted movement had no upper support, so I am considering installing a hardwood brace between the rear chime mount and the movement itself in an attempt to coerce it back to level. Before I do this, however, I would like to ask for any advice or suggestions you all may have.

Thanks for reading this post if you got this far. I know I can be long winded. All the best, and hope someone can offer some guidance.

Sincerely,
Eric

Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 2:05 pm     Post subject:

I have seen this with movement mounting boards (or seat boards) which are rather thin in width. Typically, a seat board is a composite wood material (about 3/4" thick) with a center, oval cut-out (where the weight chains/cables would hang down through). Small width seat boards are probably around 2-3/4" to 3" in width.

I do not encounter this problem as much with chime rod style movements, but your clock (being an anniversary edition) might have tubular chimes rather than tuned rods. Due to the weight associated with the chime hammer bracket on tubular chime movements, I have seen the exact situation which you describe with your clock.

You can certainly take measures to reinforce the seat board in your clock. This will at least help to eliminate the unsightly gap occurance around the top of your clock face. Note that the underside of the base assembly (at the bottom of your clock case) may be equiped with leg levelers. Once you have the seat board reinforced, you can look to fine tune for level with the leveling legs.

Posted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 2:19 pm     Post subject: Thank you for the advice...

It is a triple-chime mechanism with 12-solid rod chimes that are mounted to a separate rear support, so you may have hit on the extra weight being the issue.

I did just notice that the clock was out of front to back level here at our home also, however, so sadly I may be the guilty party in causing the problem in the first place! hmm...

I guess I will just add a bit of support and make sure that the support only applies pressure to the movement where there is already a metal spacer so as to not harm any of the pivots with additional pressure.

Perhaps in time the dial will find itself nice and flush with the case.

Thanks again,
Eric

Posted: Sat Feb 11, 2012 5:57 am     Post subject:

Personally I would make a new seatboard out of some REAL wood and not the cheap-o board that they make it with. Mounting a straight part capable of holding the weight over time will give you less headaches. When you put the new one in you can also adjust it so the dial meets the case properly.

-Pete

Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 3:18 pm     Post subject:

Sorry ohpete, but composite material is actually more stable than solid wood. This is pretty much a standard for those that manufacture floor clocks. Solid wood is prone to bending under the weight of the movement within a short period of time after installation. It has been found that composites such as masonite and plywood are actually better woods to work with for the purpose of a seat board.

Posted: Tue Feb 14, 2012 11:41 pm     Post subject: composites

Typically the word "composite" is assigned to that cheap chipboard stuff that is not stable. It warps and bends and flakes apart especially if any moisture gets to it.

Plywood is good.

I have not had any seatboards that were anything but flat in clocks from the 1980's to 1880's.

-Pete