New member needs help with broken clock

Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 4:57 pm     Post subject: New member needs help with broken clock

I have a clock that quit working a couple of years ago and my wife really wants it fixed. One of the springs broke when winding it. I got the feeling from reading information on the Clockworks web site about the Hermle movements that I would be best off buying a whole new movement since mine was made in 1979. From some quick reading of your forum I see that springs can possibly be replaced.

I know next to nothing on the subject and would appreciate any and all advice from members or references to articles to read and learn. I am a handy type person so I should be able to do most anything unless special tools are required and I’m not above buying tools if they are reasonable and it is worth doing myself as opposed to paying someone else.

The clock says Westminster on the glass front. As mentioned it is a Hermle movement model # 341-020 with a 35mm pendulum. I removed the screws that hold the movement to the case but it seems like something else is holding it in place still. Also the hands need to be removed from the front side so the movement can be taken out of the case. It wasn’t obvious how they are held on so I didn’t want to try to force them off when I have access to you knowledgeable guys.

I had never really considered messing around with clocks but when I saw a part of the forum for woodworking I got excited as I am beginning to get into woodworking as a serious hobby and the idea of making clock cases, especially Grandfather Clocks sounds just too appealing.

Thanks for any help. I look forward to participating in this forum.

Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 6:39 pm     Post subject:

you should replace the movement - thats my advice.

a hermle mechanism thats 30 years old will be a waste spending money on.

get an exact replacement - 341-020. the 35 mm is important too as you know.

take a good look with a torch ay wots holding the mechanism in still - usually only screws or nuts - sometimes after so long it may 'stick' to the case.

take the hands off first - unscrew the nut (may be a round milled one) with pliers and by holding the minute hand as clocse to the center as possible to avoid breaking it.
pull off min and hour hands.
the dial will be held on with pins most peobably.
you may have to swop over some fixing to the new mechanism depending on your replacement.

then if you really want to mess with the old mechanism you can do so at your leisure. you will find - after taking the 'power' from the train - that the pivit holes are worn and the barrels holes worn and dirt on the mechanism.

Posted: Tue Dec 16, 2008 8:49 pm     Post subject:

Thanx Clokfxr,

I used your advice and was able to remove the works from the case. I was also able to remove the offending spring assembly.

I know your advice was to replace the whole thing but money is very tight, daughter's wedding this Saturday and son going to college out of state in January. I'd like to fix the main spring for now and clean and lube the whole thing and if other parts go bad later all I will be out is the price of the spring and can then replace the whole works.

I realize this is probably not the best route and I don't want to make you think I don't respect your advice, it's just a money issue for now. That said, will you advise me about measuring and ordering the spring?

Bonehead

PS. I was already checking out the case to see how hard it would be to duplicate it or make one similar.

Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 3:16 pm     Post subject:

Since money is an issue, you may want to do a temporary fix: Put on gloves, remove the cap from the spring barrell, and remove the spring carefully with needle-nosed pliers. Be careful!!! If the spring is broken in the middle, you must replace it. If it is stripped out on the outside end, grind it down to a rounded off end like the original, and use a metal punch to punch a new hole in it about 1/2 inch from the end. Clean and put old spring back in being sure new hole catches in the barrell hook. You must also be sure the inside hole catches on the winding arbour hook. You may need to bend it in slightly. If you order a new spring, you must measure the width, thickness (micrometer) and the length. You can order from Merritts Antiques.

Posted: Thu Dec 18, 2008 5:06 am     Post subject: That is one cool projection clock!

This clock projects the time, date, or temp on the wall or ceiling http://www.liangdianup.com/clocks_1.htm some people call
it a ceiling clock but I call it a digital projection clock. I got the black one because at the time that was the only color
they had. But now they have them in black and also in white.

Posted: Fri Dec 19, 2008 11:12 pm     Post subject:

you didnt say if its a chime or strike or timeside spring. barrels are also numbered - something like 40 for the w and s and 41/42 for the chime.

time and strike you will notice are exactly the same. chime is bigger.
spring in w and s is about 17mmx.40mmx35mm. chime about 21mmx.40mmx40mm. this is the way they are put incatalogues - example height=17xstrength=.40xinside diameter of barrel=35mm = 17x.40x35.

measure to make sure these are right. hermle springs don't usually break but can.
sometimes the click releases the ratchett wheel and the arbor becomes dislodged from the hook inside the barrel.

if you replace the mainspring you will have to put it in by hand so release it from the wire holding it bound. if you try to just put it in from the ring holding it you will find the barrel hook will close under pressure from the spring and you will have to take it out again anyway.

clean the spring when you've got it out. it will have anti-corrosion grease on it. you will find dirt will also come off.

when putting it in - make sure the end hooks onto the bit inside the barrel and then wind the rest of the spring in. you will find it otugh but its the only way. professionals like me use an expensive winder to wind it then push it into the barrel straght because we do so many.

you won't have special oil so use a BIT of engine oil on the mainspring before putting the cap back on. this is pressed on using a vice and I use protective specially-made washers to avoid jaw-marks - you can use wood blocks or similar.

good luck

Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 5:06 pm     Post subject:

Thanks so much for the good advice and directions. I am just back from the wedding so that is why it took so long for me to respond.

bonehead