Novice clock builder questions

Posted: Wed Jan 28, 2009 6:21 pm     Post subject: Novice clock builder questions

Hi there -

I'm an hobbyist woodworker planning on building my first clock. I have designed a mantle clock and intend to use Klockit movement 13025. Klockit was nice enough to send the manual and spec sheet for this movement so I could get some general case sizing information. But I have a few questions I was hoping some of the experts could help me with:

1. Does the silencing lever go through the clock face? If so, can Klockit cut the slot or is that something I'd have to figure out?

2. I think I understand that the movement mounts to the back of the clock face board but I think I read the spec sheet that the chime assembly mounts to the back of the clock? Does the back have to be a specific species of wood for tonal quality? Can the chimes be mounted in a different manner? How do you adjust the chime assembly to ensure that the chime hammers are centered on the chime rods?

Any recommendations are greatly appreciated!!!

Matt

Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 4:40 am     Post subject:

usually the chime rods mount to the side of the case, if not you will have to make shims so the chime bar assembly lines up with the hammers. I would make the back from 1/4" plywood.

Chime hammers may need some slight bending so they strike the chime rod correctly.

If you are using the dial they suggest, they should punch the hole for the silence lever. ASK

Posted: Thu Jan 29, 2009 2:45 pm     Post subject:

Hello,

I will try my best to answer your questions:

1.) Klockit offers a custom dial punch for any key-wind mechanical movement. Most dials (clock faces) can be punched for mechanical movements (with exception of a few of the raised appliqué and vaulted dials - which prove complicated to punch without damaging the dial). Custom dial punching will include the silence lever slot when punching for movement #13025.

#26999 and #26998 are stock numbers for custom dial punching - priced at $11.99 per dial. The difference between the two stock numbers really amounts to a difference in grommet color (the grommets are inserted into the key-wind punch holes to provide a finished appearance to the dial). #26999 includes brass grommets - #26998 includes antique brass grommets.

2.) The chime assembly would mount to the case back panel. If you should need to move the chime rod assembly forward (from the back panel) within the case, you can utilize a wooden spacer or cleat. Secure the chime rods to the wooden spacer and then secure the assembly to your case back panel with screws.

In order to best access the chimes for adjustment, I would recommend a split case back panel. The chimes would mount to a lower panel, while the upper panel could be removed to allow for chime hammer adjustment from the rear of the case. More than likely, the lower panel will be larger in height than the upper panel (due to the location of chime rod mounting). Creating a mating rabbet on both panels will help to seal the case from an entryway for dust.

Chime adjustment involves bending the movement hammers so that each hammer is centered over its corresponding chime rod. 99.9% of the time, this will be a requirement (as mechanical movement manufacturers do not make movements for any specific case). The movement instructions will touch upon this necessary adjustment.

In regard to a specific wood – some do say that certain woods have better tonal quality (or sound resonance, or what have you). I really do think that it is something that amounts to personal preference. In my opinion, any wood will act as an amplifier of sorts (even plywood veneer). My best recommendation is that the case back panel (or panels) be made from the wood that you plan to construct the case assembly out of (especially if the back panel will be visible through the front of the case).

Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 2:17 am     Post subject:

Thanks for the responses! They've been a big help.

A quick follow up - if I use a solid wood back, do I have to worry about wood movement?

Posted: Fri Jan 30, 2009 10:18 pm     Post subject:

It is always a good idea to allow for some wood movement. Typically, Klockit will design case back panels so that they are about 1/16" undersized from the opening they are fitting into (this leaves about a 1/32" gap on all four sides of the case back).