Seconds tick screwy

Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 9:17 pm     Post subject: Seconds tick screwy

Sorry about the subject line. After 15 years of sitting still, I finally got my parents grandfather clock going (Trend by Sligh, mid '80's) after some monkey's moved the clock when moving my widowed mother. Anyway I worked some silicon lubricant into the mechanism and voila!

Two questions: One, the ticking is more tock tick, which I have read is caused by not being properly level-that I will work on. The other has to do with the movement of the "seconds" dial. At the same spot, approximately the 20 second mark, it skips over a second tick and then is still (no advance) for another tick right after. All of this occurs within 5 seconds or so. The clock is keeping perfect time. I don't know how exactly all the mechanisms in a clock work, but I am pretty mechanically inclined if someone has a clue as to what this issue may be. My feeling is that a piece of dirt gunk has landed on a gear tooth gap or something. Sorry to be so long winded. Thank you

Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 9:32 pm     Post subject:

The clock being level is not necessarily your problem. The clock is "out of beat". Setting the beat is tricky on some clocks and easy on others. No matter whether the clock is level or not, it will not run if it is out of beat.
Silicone lube is not good except to get it going. Now that you have it going, it should be cleaned and good clock oil placed on each pivot. The silicone works for a while, but when it drys, it becomes sticky and causes more problems than good. A picture of the movement would help us to help you get it in beat. Could you post some?

Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 10:34 pm     Post subject:

I will take some photographs tonite, might be a bit tricky as I can only see in from the sides and bottom. Hope that helps. The movement has West Germany on it and there is some other info that I will try to make out as well. Is the second's dial issue related to being "out of beat" as well?

Posted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 11:19 pm     Post subject: Got some pics and info

However, this board doesn't allow pics to be posted. WOW can you send me your email and I can send you the pics, they are pretty small files.

Here is some info on the back of the movement:
84
Hermle
Black Forest Clocks
1161-850 AS
114CM
60

Hope this helps! Thank you.

Posted: Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:44 pm     Post subject:

84 is the year it was made = 1984

Franz Hermle is the movement/clock maker

Black Forest clocks import (and sell)

1161-850AS is the model number of the movement(mechanism)

114 cm is the length of the pendulum

60 equals the beats per minute = 60

the most usual problem with any clock is dirt in the mechanism.
These Hermles are very good until they get to 20 - 30 years old - mostwear out, some can be serviced if not too worn. Most people think their clock is immortal and will go forever without a service.
I've come across few in good condition that just need cleaning and oiling.

Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 3:53 pm     Post subject:

I have been reading a lot about this stuff, could you recommend a good clean solution to clean the movement after I remove it from the clock? I think a good cleaning and lubrication (with clock oil) should do the trick. I am sure it hasn't worn out yet. It was bought in 1986 and ran until 1993 when it was moved and has sat like this until I got it going last week. Thank you for your reply

Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 11:04 pm     Post subject:

you can get a small amout of concentrated ammonia from fleabay which you mix with water. preferably heat up to get rid of dirt quicker. only leave in solution for 5 minutes or the lacquer will come off the plates.
Don't heat more than 50 degrees celsius.

WEAR GLOVES AND A MASK THE SOLUTION WILL OVERPOWER YOU AND USE IN A VERY WELL VENTILATED AREA OR EVEN OUTSIDE!!!

Rinse in hot water and dry straight away or it will go rusty. (hairdryer?).

alternatively use a cleaning solution of your choice and if it is flammable it may dry quickly too. again use in a ventilated area.
WHATEVER YOU DO - SAFETY FIRST AND THINK IT THROUGH BEFORE PROCEEDING.

Oil the pivots only where they show throught the plates front and back.
A touch (smear) on a couple of escape wheel teeth where they touch the pallets surface.